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It was the beginning of summer and nearly 100 degrees out when I found myself taking the the three-mile trek to Faleria, the closest thing the area has to civilization from Calcata. Calcata, a village about 30 miles north of Rome, has a small handful of stores: an ethnic shop that sells everything from African clothes to candles; a wooden box shop; a hat shop; and several art galleries. Thanks to the hippies and artists who make up Calcata's population, if I wanted a sari or a turban or some incense, I'd only need to walk about fifty steps from my apartment. But if I needed something useful like, say, food, I'd have to walk for a while.
I'd planned to stay in Calcata about a year while researching a book about the village relic that had gone missing (many said "stolen"), the Holy Foreskin (yes, that would be the foreskin of Jesus). And I was a week into my tenure when I'd gone to the not-so-super market in the new village of Calata Nuova (a 10 minute walk away) and went crazy when I saw they had cans of my favorite soup, Zuppa di Ceci (Chickpea soup). I rushed home, anxious to pop open a can; I got out a sauce pot, a bowl, and a spoon. I just had to open it. I scoured the corner of the main room that is the kitchen; a can opener was nowhere to be found.



