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A woman named Sharon wrote me an interesting question this morning. On an upcoming trip to Paris, she wants to visit the restaurant supply stores of Paris. I mention them in the book, but where can she find them exactly? What should she purchase?

I could spend hours on this subject.

The largest and oldest collection of cookware stores can be found around the Les Halles area of Paris, the neighborhood that was once home to the city's sprawling wholesale food market until the whole place was shut down and the sellers shipped off to Rungis.

1. The legendary E. Dehllieren has been in business since 1820, making it the oldest cookware store in Paris. The place is rustic, dusty and crammed with every kitchen gadget you can imagine. On offer are whisks in 17 different sizes, a vast assortment of copper pots, knives, authentic crepe pans, every manner of Le Creuset pot and every gadget imaginable. The staff works on commission and thus will fall over themselves to help. A bonus: they all speak English. (18, Rue Coquillière)
   
   
2. A. Simon actually has two stores, one for tableware and the other specializing in gear for patisserie. The chocolate mold selection itself is worth a visit. (46, 48, rue Monmartre)
   
   
3. La Bovida has a variety of gear, but is my favorite for knives and specialty spices, which can be purchased in small home-size tins or bags weighing several kilos. (36, rue Montmartre)
   
   
4. Mora down the street has a smattering of everything, including the largest collection of cookie cutters and cake decorating products that I've ever seen. I am not sure why one would need a cookie cutter in the shape of a cow, but they've got one. (13, rue Montmartre)

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